Tel Aviv is known as a beach city; perhaps "The Beach City" in the mid-east. At least it is "The Beach City" in Israel. So we figured, what better place to unwind and relax for two days after a long flight over?
We arrived late late on Friday night, got some shekels out of the ATM right before going through customs, and got a cab.
The exchange rate is about 3.5 ₪ (NIS or New Israeli Shekel) to $1 US, so the conversions are easy enough to do in your head.
We are staying at the Hotel Armon on busy Hayarkon Street. We are on the top floor, in a small, square, well-used and older room with a small, one foot wide balcony, # 406. Though we are located really well, just one block over and back from the beach, we have just a sliver view of the ocean. Most rooms below us have no view. It's not a bad place, but it's not a great place. It's an affordable room in an expensive city.
We were both pretty tired. Gail slept well, but I woke up a couple times during that first night. And the second night... and the third. I am not sure if it is the stress of a situation back home that is keeping me up, or if it is the noise from the street (we always sleep with the windows open) or jet lag or what, but I am pretty tired still as I write this, two days later.
We spent the first morning walking Tel Aviv, first around the park along the Yarkon River. It is warm, about 85 degrees here during the day, but more humid than we are used to, so it feels hot and sweaty. The park has scattered, low trees, palms and leafy types, that offer some shade in a deserty kind of way. There are grassy spots, and granite monuments here and there having to do with the Israeli War. Funny green parrots or parakeets fly free here, and the loud crows are gray and black, rather than just jet black. Looking down the greenish river you can see the high rises of Tel Aviv in the background.
We followed the bike-walking path along to where it curved down by the waterfront at the Old Port area. This is where we ate a small dinner of fish shish kebob and beer the first night, at a little place called Benny The Fisherman, right on the water. It was pretty good food, and our introduction to the very expensive prices of food and drink.
But this day at the waterfront there was a big triathelon going on.
There are a lot of kid play structures and little parks and squares here, with cloth shade covers to keep the sun off. Gail notices that most people here seem pretty young.
We stopped at a covered street food market place, The Farmers' Market, for a lemonaide and water before heading out along Dizengoff Street.
The city has a kind of dusty, worn-out feeling to it.
There are lots of electric scooters and bikes, and people often ride two or three to a scooter, hanging on (what great balance) or riding the back of the bike standing tall.
Turns out it is Gay Pride Week, couples everywhere, and events scattered about.
We stopped at Roma for two glasses of a good Israeli rosé wine and a half of a mozzarella sandwich. It was really good. It was really expensive. Any wine at all costs a minimum of $10 a glass here, and the half sandwich set us back another $15. And, unlike places in Europe, it is expected you will tip 10-15%.
One of the things I like about new places are the small cultural things you notice. The writing on the signs. Hebrew is a cool looking language, and they do not give much effort to other languages so things like bus stops can be confusing (hard to read the schedule). The stop signs here all have a little hand in the middle of the sign, and the pharmacy signs are not the green cross of Europe, nor the green crescent of Muslim countries... they use a green Star of David.
We hooked right, down to the beach, and came out at Jerusalem Beach, about half way down south along the string of beaches lining the Mediterranean.
The beaches are really wide, fine golden sand, and very crowded.
Very crowded. As in wall-to-wall people, umbrellas and beds. The high rise buildings provide a back wall to the scene, and there is a walkway to stroll along with some cafés and bars. The water is shallow; you can see people way out still only chest deep, and there are rocks and jetties built out to make protected areas for swimming.
We are up north next to Metzitzim beach, so we started walking that way, just soaking it all in.
Did I mention the humidity? After an hour or so, we stopped at a beach bar for another rosé and a wheat beer and water. The loud, thumping, techno-music gave me a headache.
We rested in our room for an hour, then walked back up Dizengoff to dinner at Goocha. This was a really great meal. I had a whole grouper. Gail had salmon with herb cream sauce and mashed potatoes. We drank a dry, tangy and crisp, white blend by Recanti (6% Chardonnay 94% Colombard 2016 from Israel). We arrived at 19:30 without a reservation and were fortunate to score a table outside. Within half an hour there was a constant line of perhaps 25 people.
Our waiter comped us a tiramisu for dessert, so I had to get an espresso which was the perfect complement as it offset the sweetness.
All in all it was a mellow rest day, spent wandering slowly soaking it all in.
Thinking about yesterday's crowds, we got there at 9:00 and grabbed two beds and an umbrella up front, right on the water.
There weren't many people yet, but as the morning warmed up it got really crowded and loud.
It is a nice system here. They have self service kiosks where you can choose how many umbrellas, beds or chairs you want. Deposit the money (30 ₪ or $8.40 for two beds and an umbrella) grab the ticket and go.
We sweated and red and napped and swam in the warm, shallow-green waters. The beach filled up and it got louder and louder, more crowded. Thank goodness we had the open view in front.
About noon:thirty we left, stopped up at the bar and sucked down a liter of San Pellegrino before heading back to our room to shower.
We spent the afternoon in Jaffa, then ate a forgettable dinner at Java before turning in for the evening.
So far I am just not feeling it for Israel.
We'll see what it is like in Jerusalem.