We got to the Düsseldorf airport early, and hugged Angelika and Ralph goodbye in the “Kiss and Fly” parking.
Hugs were going at a cost of 2 for one, under the cost of kissing.
Gail and I found a French bakery and split an Almandine Croissant. Going through security was efficient, friendly and fast and we made our gate with time to spare.
There is a cool Aperol Spritz bar-lounge up on the B concourse.
I love Air France. They simply emailed my boarding pass, saving time again so I didn’t have to go to the website looking for it.
Then, on our one hour flight to Paris, the young sophisticated stewardess served us brioche and jus d’orange.
As we landed in Paris I saw the Eiffel Tower, the seine wrapping around an overcast Paris.
Oh these crazy French.
The cleaning woman mopped between all of our feet as we were lined up using the urinals.
Merci.
We walked around a little then caught our flight to Toulouse.
Landing in Toulouse and going to the main train station was not exactly like I read on the internet, so let me clear it up for you:
Exiting the Toulouse airport to public transportation we walked slightly right to the train tracks. I was looking for a train direct to the main train station but there was none. Looking at the map I saw we had to take blue line T2 in the direction of the Palais de Justice, going nine stops to Arenes and then transfer to the red metro line A to Marengo.
The main station is called Matabiau, but it is not on the list of destinations. Go to Marengo, right next door.
I bought our tickets on the machine, at €1,20 each and we took the next train out.
At Arenes we walked downstairs to the metro, tickets still good for two hours between transfers.
When we got off the red A line, we simply walked out of the station and over one block to the Canal du Midi.
I was feeling pretty good about my public transpo skills, especially when we helped a girl from Portugal who could not figure it out.
I got the cash I needed, and we got to the Péniche Chambre (houseboat) d'hôte named The Clémence Isaure.
Goddamn is this a cool place. I wish we had like another day or two here just to hang out. Everything in the room was so efficient, and the space used so well.
The owner was raised on a (ocean-going sailboat) boat. She is an architect and also works with fabric design, which explains the cool interior design and ambience.
It was comfortable and Gail enjoyed it as well. I have always wanted to stay on one of these canal boats.
If you want to stay on the boat, here is all the contact info so you don’t have to work for it like I had to:
Here is their website at AirB&B
Facebook page.
Finally, their email.
If you contact her, please tell her I sent you. I love it when I get a surprised email from any of our previous hosts.
The Garonne River goes through the city, connecting north to Bordeaux and the Atlantic. If our walk south goes well, perhaps we will return and walk the Bordeaux to Toulouse section one day to complete our Atlantic to Mediterranean walk, along the Canal Latéral.
Or not.
We walked into the city, stopping at a few churches including St. Étienne where the builder of the Canal du Midi, Pierre-Paul Riquet is buried. It is true, most of the buildings in the Ville Rose are made of red brick or stone.
We went up to the roof of Galeries Lafayette for wine, water, and and sardine pate on bread, as an excuse to enjoy the view. The food, wine and view were fair at best.
We ate at a restaurant on the main square, Brasserie Les Arcades in the Place du Capitol. The foie gras ravioli, and the spicy warm chicken salad were excellent. But then the HUGE disappointment: the cassoulet. It was the worst cassoulet ever. Never mind that they forgot about me and we sat for two hours waiting for it (It takes fifteen extra minutes, Monsieur! I have been waiting two hours, Monsieur!!!)
The disappointment was in the cassoulet itself. The beans were tough, obviously not long-cooked, and had no flavor at all. The cassoulet I make is ten times better, and I know cassoulet.
So rather than throw good money after bad, we left and stopped at La Réserve for dessert. I had a cafe gourmand and Gail got whisky and coffee.
We spent a couple hours enjoying the sunset and lights on the river by Pont Neuf, then stayed up late packing for tomorrow’s walk.
More information on Toulouse is here.