It feels so good to be back in Istanbul. We can walk the streets without dodging touts and hustlers, we can step into the first little store right around the corner and buy a bottle of wine for the room, we can just walk down to the waterfront and for about $5US total have two, whole fish sandwiches (10₺ each) cooked right on the boat.
We have been in Istanbul before, back in 2012. Just follow the Turkey link on the side of my blog, and work backwards to see more photos and impressions from that first trip. I will build on that in this blog post.
Anyway, I have been looking forward to this time in Turkey for the past two and a half weeks. We spent three and a half days this time round, and used the better part of two of the days to take side trips. So this is a compilation of things in Istanbul itself, from this trip. Again, for more photos or information, see my previous blog posts by following the Turkey link on the side.
All in all I am satisfied. And the location is excellent: between the Grand Bazar - Spice Market and Main Square by the Blue Mosque, just up off the waterfront a few blocks.
So I would tell you this is a good place in a great location.
The mosque right next to us is really pretty, red and white striped. The imam has a good singing voice as well, so it is pleasant to listen to the call to prayer.
The first afternoon we had a few hours, so we just set out to walk around. We went through the Spice Bazaar, where I was looking for two things: saffron and blue Persian salt. Well, nobody had the salt, but everybody had the saffron. You can buy the Turkish saffron, which is basically what we get in the US, but for pennies on the dollar, or you can buy the “best” Iranian saffron that is ten times the price. I need it for a few cooking needs, and the Turkish was fine. I could buy it in bulk or in very convenient (for packing home) little containers, so I went that route. We also picked up some tea.
We wandered down along by the Galata Bridge and bought a fish sandwich off one of the boats. It was good, but it really needed the red pepper spice like we had last time. For 10₺ ($10 US) it is a great bargain.
We walked the streets, unwinding, listening to the call to prayer and people talking. We found out how to use the metro and bout our Istanbul Card for 6₺ so we could basically ride two-for-one.
I was hungry and wanted to try the “Turkish pizza” called Böreçisi. I was not really impressed and didn’t have it again.
Speaking of food, I had a really good lamb donar kebab (sandwich) one afternoon. I look for the ones where they layer the vegetables with the meat, and wait until there is a good char on the outside of the meat.
I also found the guys selling the mussels stuffed with rice, with lemon. Many of them are just carrying the mussels around, I waited until I found a guy who had them “fresh heated” at his restaurant, and just ate a half dozen on the sidewalk.
Fantastic.
Within an hour of sunrise it was thunder and lightning and pouring rain, but it quit by the end of breakfast and we had a nice second day.
The hotel provides a great breakfast; more of a selection than I could eat, but the best part is the chef making omelets with that great red Turkish pepper spice mix.
Today was finally our day to “sleep in” and so I didn’t get up till 5:00. Shower and coffee, then I started trying to catch up on ten days worth of blog posts from all those days of no WiFi.
Gail was up about 8:00 and after breakfast we were ready to hit the streets.
Our plan today is to learn the metro system (something new) to pop in and out of a few new locations, then return to some of our old hangouts like Taksim Square, walking Istiklal Street, going through the Grand Bazaar and over by Süleymaniye to the big mosque and one of my favorite restaurants.
No taksi for us!
We stopped by an old restaurant to see a waiter with whom we once sang “Hotel California."
He wasn’t there any more, but we stayed for wine, shrimps in oil and a fantastic salad of rocket, tomatoes and cheese with pomegranate juice as a dressing.
To top it off, the current owner was so tickled that we stopped by that he dug out the number of the old waiter and called him so we could say hello.
He laughed. Of course he remember!
We were comped water and watermelon and cherries, so we rolled out more than strolled out.
Later we tried to eat dinner way over by the Süleymaniye mosque, but damn if it wasn’t closed (though google swears it is open, but three large brass locks are staring right at me). I had to settle for a very good donar-in-a-pita sandwich instead.
It was really good but I wanted excellent.
We went though the Grand Bazaar. I remember our first time here we thought it was almost overwhelming; this time around, because of our experiences in Morocco, Bosnia, Egypt, Israel, and Jordan it is an easy stroll and (in comparison) we are not bothered at all. I could even keep my sense of direction and tell exactly where we were in relative space and time.
It was fun to see all the pretty lights, spotlighted sparking jewelry and other stuff.
Later, about 20:00, Gail went downstairs to the hamam for a massage.
Really, the sum of today was relaxing back into a familiar and comfortable environment.
We didn’t sight-see, we did that last trip. If you want to see photos of the cool sights in Istanbul, just click on the TURKEY link and scroll back through the pages.
A lot of stuff in a small area.
On the way there we saw an interesting concrete wall studded with broken tiles, pottery and dishes. Turns out that the guy who made it was sitting there in the shade, the broken pieces are what was left of his inventory after the 2009? 1999? earthquake.
He was very interested to hear we were American, and said he hasn’t met anyone from the US in over a year.
“Such a shame” he said, “that our leaders are so foolish. We are all suffering for it.”
Further on down the street a guy came out to meet us, insisting that we see his store.
“No thank you” I smiled.
“Carpets, jewelry”
“No, we are out walking”
“Oh, the Aya Sophia is closed now.”
Some people can’t take no for an answer.
Again I nodded no, and we started off.
“Tea, you must have a tea. “
Now I am going to end up insulting him.
“You must come for the experience. I will give you unique experience..”
And he turned to go to his shop, and so I grabbed Gail’s arm and we took off.
Rude rude rude rude rude.
I am the very rude Englishman (because he was certain we were from the UK).
Fine with me.
I think he is still cursing me to hell right now, but goddamn it, I am NOT here to waste time making small talk in the hopes that I might buy something which I will not.
We are here to do and see what we want.
I could have spent this entire trip (and indeed in the past have been fooled into losing an hour or more of time) sitting as some store keeper prattles on about rugs or whatever.
Besides, though he was more tenacious he was a wimp compared to the Egyptians.
And yes, the Aya Sofia was closed, but we had been in it before. It really is a "must-see" place.
On our way to go into the Blue Mosque (we were still outside the courtyard wall) several “kindly” and one “fake security” carpet salesmen tried to offer us helpful tips (or in one case threaten us) that we must cover up, we must go here, etc.
But I ignored them all. These guys are amateurs compared to the Egyptians and Moroccans.
Here is what you do, at any of the mosques.
Women, it is helpful to carry a lightweight scarf in your purse/pack. Other than that dress as you wish. Shorts, long dress, short skirt, whatever.
Men, wear whatever but perhaps not a sleeveless T-shirt. Shorts are fine.
You can walk in the gates into the big courtyard fronting the mosque, no problem. Just wander around looking and photographing and sitting to observe.
Now, to go in the mosque itself look for the place where they are giving out loaner clothes. At the blue mosque it was just outside on the right side. At Suleymaniye it was by the visitor entrance.
So at Blue I was given a loaner skirt to cover my legs.
Gail had on a short black dress. With her own scarf she covered her head and shoulders, but she got a loaner skirt as well.
Some women who did not have a scarf got a “hooded” loaner full body robe.
See the photos.
Then go in the visitor entrance. You need to remove your shoes and a plastic bag is provided if you want.
I saw one dumbass ignoring the hundred other people around him and putting the plastic bags on over his Nike’s that he still had on, so of course he got yelled at by the guard and had to go back.
Once inside you can carry your shoes or set them on the shoe cubby in the back.
When you are done, at the exit drop off the clothes and there is a specific bin for the shoe bag.
You do NOT need help or advice or to be yelled at on the outside before you are even in the walls.
You should know that as of now, June 2018, the interior of the Blue Mosque is being restored. You can still enter and see patches of the famous tiles, but most of it is covered, the ceiling lowered, and scaffolding everywhere.
You should still go see the parts you can see, but you will be missing out on the whole “breathtaking openness” of the mosque experience. You really need to see the wide open space with no supporting columns to appreciate the grandeur. Like a cathedral in Europe.
Fret not, there is an excellent alternative about a half hour walk away, just over on the other side of the Grand Bazaar.
You are looking for the Suleymaniye Mosque.
It is just as big as the Blue but not as famous. It should be.
Trust me.
To truly appreciate the mosques you have to go into one of the huge ones and sit a bit. Plus Suleymaniye will not be as crowded.
Anyway, it was nice to hang out in this area again. We walked another hour just soaking it all in before heading up to our room to finish the wine and pack.
Istanbul is a magical city.