I woke in the dark to huge thunder and lightning. I had to half close the windows then laid back and enjoyed the cool air.
So the first day and a half in Istanbul we touched base with some old, comfortable places, and explored some new places. We learned the metro system and I found the ferry schedules.
So this day we headed off to an area totally new to us, the Prince Islands, specifically the island of Büyükada.
The Prince Islands are seven islands in the Marmaris, about an hour south east of Istanbul by ferry. Four islands are open to the public, the largest and most visited is Büyükada.
You can buy a tour; we just went on our own. Here is how:
From our neighborhood, we took the T-1 tram to Kabataş. You want to get to this port (below Taksim square) or to Beşiktaş.
We caught the first boat out at 9:30 (see photo of schedule).
There are several ferries to the islands. We took Adalar Ferry to Büyükada, it cost 7.5 ₺ each, one way, and takes an hour fifteen.
Being on the water gave us a whole new view of the city.
We were gliding along, Europe on the right, Asia on the left.
I bought a red Turkish tea to sip.
Then the entertainment started. Some guy wheeled up a suitcase and started yelling.
A preacher? Political speech? A nut?
Well you remember rose late night commercials with Ron Popiel and his Pocket Fisherman?
This guy was selling a fruit-potato peeler.
And he had all of our attention.
He was yelling away in Turkish, but even I could get the gist of it, and he had us all laughing, “ooooing” and “aaaahhhhhhing” along as he demonstrated by peeling potatoes, carrots, tomatoes and even a pineapple.
He made a killing!
Then came the “push in the spout lemon juice squeezer” guy. He did well, but I tell you the peeler guy killed it.
The time passed quickly and before we knew it we were pulling into the port of Haybeliada, not our stop.
This looks like a cute little island town, sort of like Catalina perhaps, with cafés lining the port area and nice clean homes marching up the very green hill.
Ten minutes later we were on the next island over, our destination.
Büyükada is known for their horse-drawn carriages (phaetons). At the highest point of this, the largest island, the 6th-century Hagia Yorgi Church has panoramic views. Nearby are the pine forests of Dil Burnu National Park.
We are here to see what we shall see.
Like most “car-less” Islands, it isn’t quite. But close enough.
Very quiet, peaceful tree lined shopping streets with great bakeries, fruit and vegetable stands, lined with cafés. It is simply a matter of picking which one to stop at.
My first impression is that this would be a great place to spend a night, enjoying the calm of the early morning and late evening after those of us from the tourist boats have left.
This is what I love about Turkey; it is so big and there is such a variety of places to see.
A fisherman is right at the side of the road, between stores, gutting and filleting his catch.
A little curl about eight, walking with her mom, just drops her trash (used Kleenex) on the street.
The “ding-a-ling of the horse carriages as they go by.
The shy smile and wave from the curious Muslim women walking by.
The really nice little patios on apartments, and the beautiful homes that look like the would fit in San Francisco.
Hotel Princess, kind of like a Hilton, or the homey old fashioned vibe of Hotel Mom?
Bougainvillea spills out from every yard and porch, and there is one charming house after another after another on the quiet streets
We pull into a colorful, hip bar on a side street for two (giant, inexpensive) glasses of wine. Great music, very quiet small crowd, sitting in an easy chair in the shade.
Really great music and good wine.
It is like being on vacation from our trip.
Munching peanuts, sipping, relaxing... the time slipped away.
Like any decent island or beach town, it is very very colorful here; all flowers and multi colored chairs in the cafés and funky painted buildings and signs.
We met a Muslim couple from San Diego on their first trip to Turkey. They are amazed at the low house prices and opportunity here. We clue them in on some good places to visit.
Gail wanders in and out of some shops while I photograph some nice homes.
Eventually we end up at Ali Baba to eat. It is on the water, kind of a typical tourist looking place except... Ataturk himself ate here in 1927. Who am I to argue with Ataturk?
I order a shrimp in oil, anchovies in hot oil, and shrimp stew. Gail orders a salad. We get a bottle of rosé and a water.
It is all really good.
As we eat and drink it thunders and starts to rain. Istanbul disappears in the distance.
The seagulls swerve up to us and away, the big fish in the ocean below fight over crumbs that people throw over.
The couple and daughter next to us smile occasionally; I think perhaps they are enjoying the scene with us, or approving of the food.
We are still drinking as they pay their bill, and I notice the mom and dad nudging their daughter.
She speaks to us.
“Excuse me, where are you from?”
“California.”
“I noticed your accent is so perfect...” and so that is how we ended up spending a pleasant hour with Hasti, a senior in high school, and her parents Behzad and Farzaneh from Tehran, Iran.
Yes, the very scary people that we have banned from entering the United States. Those Iranians.
Except…
Except they were just people like us, and very curious to know about California, just as we were to know about Iran. They never tried to nuke, knife or shoot me. Instead we got them to sit back down with us and we talked for an hour or more, Hasti (who already speaks four languages and is working on her fifth: Mandarin) doing the interpreting when needed. We found out about their life and the restrictions on travel for them, and some of what life is like in a country where a minority, but a very vocal minority of religious fundamentalists have the government’s ear.
Funny, but it sounds pretty much like the US right now.
They were dressed like us; no head scarves or anything.
They acted and ate like us. They spoke a different language. About the only other real difference was that their daughter was much more well educated than any high school kids I know.
We exchanged emails. Perhaps we will see each other again some day.
This is what we need more of: people meeting people, talking, seeking to see what we have in common.
Finally, finally we have had enough and we set out to walk again, then go to catch the 16:35 ferry. Cruising home I am again struck by how big Istanbul is. As far as I can see it sprawls along the shore, high rise after skyscraper for miles.
Over 15 million people here.
It started to rain on our way home, and we walked the last two blocks in a drizzle.
We were back at our room about 18:00.