We headed to Cochem, probably the largest town on the River Mosel; a train ride to the town of Koblenz where the Mosel empties into the Rhine, then a cruise upriver from there.
When we got off the train in Koblenz we had to sort of charge through the town to make the ferry.
Once on board the ship, however, the cruise was very nice and relaxing. The river is a smaller, very scenic, almost intimate version of the Rhine, with many towns surrounded by vineyards, castles topping the hills and old churches and cathedrals. We sat in the ship's cafe (there was also a restaurant, and outside decks) and drank coffee (till 10:30) then switched to wine, and read our books. I popped in and out to take photos, and talked with others on the ship. One annoying lady just would NOT leave us alone, insisting that we listen as she gave us advice on places to see.
It was really interesting to go through the locks. I have never done that before, and it is really something to see how the ships squeeze in with inches to spare, then rise maybe 20 feet up to the next level.
There were also a lot of campgrounds along the river. It turns out that this is one of the most popular camping areas in Europe, so much so that it was almost like a small city stretched for miles along the banks.
We could see Cochem and its towering castle from far downriver. Cochem is a small, wine based town, overlooked by vineyards. Small, winding, colorful streets lead past narrow, four story pink, blue, yellow, green and brown houses. We arrived just in time for a rainstorm, and we ducked through the narrow streets to find our pension, arriving just as the rain quit. Our room is really charming and quirky, and there is a great common area-slash-sunroom where we can hang out, and they serve breakfast.
We dropped our bags, and headed out without an umbrella (I was sure the rain was over for the day; besides the sun is hot now...) then I ran back a half block to get it as Gail hid under an awning as yet another downpour moved through.
We found the oldest wine cellar in Cochem, which appeared to be closed, but the owner was there doing bills. We didn't know what to order, so I explained to him (in German) that we are normally red wine drinkers, but have been enjoying the whites, and would he please select for us what he thinks is the best wine he has?
SCORE!
With a wide smile he carefully poured two glasses of the best wine we had the entire six week trip. He went back to his bills, we sat in the cool, dark cave sipping, and in the end it cost us €2 total.
At a break for snack about 18:00 (6pm), in a cafe blaring US rock and roll, suddenly the town's church bells went off, like an explosion... The call to mass. To give you an idea of how overwhelming the bells in Europe are, and how deeply they affect you, the bells drowned out the sound of the full volume, rock music, and the big bells kind of shook the table. You can not only hear the harmony of all the bells, but occasionally when four or five ring simultaniously, you can literally feel it in your chest. Amazing. I always stop what I am doing and just listen.
After wandering the streets, ducking in and out of the rain, walking upriver to the next town, we stopped for an Irish Coffee in a bar in Germany, where the Romanian Bartender complained to us in broken English and French about wanting to move to Spain. But, the fire was warm.
We crossed the bridge to the other side of the river, and ended up late in a bar you could hear from two blocks away. It was full of Germans, drinking beer and all (100? 200?) of them singing along at the top of their lungs to German and American songs.
"Heeeeeeey hey baby! Will you be my girl? Uh uh UH"
So of course we stopped in, grabbed a corner table and two drinks, and joined in as much as we could. The German songs are like the American ones, catchy repetitative lyrics easy to sing to: "Maaaaaa reeee ahhhh, uh huh..."
Why is every song about Maria? She really got around...
The bar was filled with the local soccer team, fire department, young and old, everybody knew each other... And they welcomed us in. What a hoot. A table full of really old people (like my parents' age) were all holding full mugs of beer, singing and swaying back and forth with the music.
The looks on peoples faces as they walked by... Watching the old people in the corner, hands up, swaying and singing, even the bartenders were singing along in between catching the customers' eye, winking and sending our another beer.
If this is just a normal bar, in a little town, it really must be something to be at Octoberfest, as this is only June.
The next morning at breakfast we met a group of German pensioners; retired, they take cycling trips through Europe, and this year they were riding the entire Rhine-Mosel.
We took an early train up two stations and got off to hike through the woods, along a creek, to Burg (castle) Eltz. It was a 5.5km hike and very peaceful. I was a little disappointed that the castle, such a beautiful and striking sight, was half covered with scafolding for some repairs. But, they are the kind of repairs that keep the castle from falling down. Started over 800 years ago, in the same family for 30 generations, it took 500 years to completely build it. Think of that, 500 years. The original family never saw it built, a father, his son, grandson and great grandson all spent their entire working lives on the castle and now, generations later this great x 10 grandson is probably cursing his forefathers as he does house repairs.
Wonder if he could call This Old House?
They had a pretty interesting museum of stuff, kind of weird things like an ivory carving of a king taking a dump, rich things like a ring with 365 inter-changable jewels (one for every day of the year? Or for every outfit?) and the usual kind of things like suits of armor and swords.
We walked through the castle and there was a whiney spoiled kid, wearing a king's robe with a plastic "make noise" sword who complained the entire time. Ugh.
After that we hiked through the woods, along a river down to Moselkern, and found a cafe for food and wine (of course) just in time to miss the next rain storm. When it was over and the sun came out, we decided to hike along the river another 3km to the next town, Müden, to catch a train home. We arrived an hour later in Müden, caught the train out, got off in Cochem and had french fries and a beer to tide us over until dinner.
Supper was pork weinerschnitzel (kind of breaded porkchop with mushroom sauce) and we ended the evening sitting in the "sunroom" of the cafe at our gasthaus, at 22:17 with a final glass of wine, writing, and reading. The guesthouse owner stopped in, a pretty young lady, and she and Gail spent an hour talking Girl Talk, which is just what Gail needs about now after two weeks of just me. When they pulled out more wine I headed to the room.
We have been in Germany for two weeks now. We are hoping for a sunny day, just one sunny warm day after 16 solid days of rain or rain showers.
Tomorrow we head to Luxembourg, then Belgium and the Netherlands for six days.
Maybe the sun is across the border?