We are on the island of Lošinj (low-shin) after a quiet ride across the Adriatic from Rab.
We docked just over the hill from the town of Mali Lošinj, and walked to our home for the next four days, Jospino Apartments. We are right on the harbor, above the Posta, with a great view. The apartment is very modern, simply furnished in tasteful white and grey with one very colorful chair as a contrast. It is really soothing and modern. We can see the harbor from the bed.
We were early (noon), and the room not ready yet, so we dropped our stuff and went out for lunch just around the corner at a great little local restaurant our hostess recommended.
It is Za Kantuni, tucked back a block off the harbor. It is our hostess' favorite place, and sure enough it was packed with locals all chattering away in big groups. We found a table and immediately ordered a liter of sparkling water and ice. That is a great thing in Croatia: they always have ice available. If you have been to Europe, you know that is a true bonus.
Anyway, the water took the edge off the pretty intense heat and humidity.
We ordered a liter of white wine from Istria.
I got a plate of marinated anchovies, and a tuna salad. Gail got cool caprese.
Those anchovies may be the best ever. So fresh, and zero salt. Even Gail liked them. And the tuna salad? Fresh crisp lettuce with a very generous helping of chunky, flavorful tuna.
So, right then we set up a reservation for 20:00 Saturday night, and I pre-ordered the lamb peka. (It takes 24 hours to make).
I mean really, it is only 87 degrees here, but with the 65% plus humidity I can’t stop sweating.
And the intense sun bouncing off the concrete of the harbor… there is a reason the only people we see are tucked away in dark alleys or under umbrellas, sitting and drinking.
There is no one out and about.
Except stupid American tourists.
Us, in particular.
We retreated to the room, unpacked, and I took a cold shower. The AC is not on, but we face away from the sun and have three large windows, so a cooling breeze wafts through. We lay on the bed to discuss what to do next, and woke up about 17:00.
With the afternoon shot and the sun heading to a more favorable angle, we decided to go walk around and see what is up. The town is very small, pretty much lining the harbor and one street heading inland, like a Y. There are a few gift stores stuck back in the alleys, and a few hidden areas we will have to seek out, but most of the town is right there at the water. Up on the hill is the Parish Church of the Nativity of the Virgin (Maria Vergine) with a checkerboard square, and there is a museum dedicated to a Greek statue, found in the sea here, intact, after over 2000 years. It is called the Apoxyomenos, and is a Greek athlete washing himself off after competition. Or just washing off the sweat from living here. Anyway, he is all over town, as this is the attraction here.
The island is known for mild climate, beautiful landscapes and a community of approximately 150 dolphins living in the sea around the island. The most known towns are Mali Lošinj, Veli Lošinj. Ironically “Mali” means small, “Veli” means big, but it is the opposite. Mali Lošinj is the larger of the two towns. In the past the island of Lošinj was connected with Cres, but the Romans dug an artificial channel to separate the islands and give passage for boats.
It seems like a new town, maybe about 300 years old. That’s it. Older than the USA, younger than most of Europe. I saw a church dated 1750 something. I googled it. Founded in maybe 1398, it hit its stride in the late 1800s.
Like I said: a young, modern town.
That’s about it.
A huge choice of beaches.
Tomorrow we will seek them out.
Today however, we stop by the ferry ticket office to see about Tuesday, stop by the grocery for supplies for our apartment, and then head to Konoba Corrado for dinner. Our hostess recommended this place as well. Their specialty is fish. There are long spears on the walls, and the terrace has a cool ceiling of olive trees and grape vines, with the grapes hanging down. Fish so fresh they were actually carrying it in even during dinner. Fresh garlic too, brought in by a sweaty big guy, who was paid on the spot by the waitress who took it back to the kitchen.
The food was good, very good, but I have to say I liked the lunch place better. Anyway, I had a very good crab salad, which was basically fresh flaked crab meat and little toasts. For dinner I had a grilled dentex steak, which was a firm white fish, kind of like a swordfish steak. I looked it up, and it looks sort of like a tuna.
Gail had the grilled turbot, which was more of a flaky, softer, white fish fillet. She liked my fish better, and so did I. It was a nice meal, but not outstanding. Again, up on the street heading out of town rather than by the harbor, it was packed and it was local.
Walking around in the cooler evening, the cafes and restaurants were packed, and the harbor promenade jammed with people.
Up early the next day, we got to coffee at The Tritŏn (cappuccino and ice-cream coffee; I get the whipped cream!) and are walking to the beach by 8:30.
We walked up, over the hill through the pines to Čikat Bay.
Čikat Bay is the most picturesque, famous, protected and most expensive part of Losinj’s notched and indented coastline. This is where the tourism industry started for Lošinj. Among the villas that line the bay is Karolina, which Emperor Franz Joseph built for his mistress.
The bay is not that big, with three indents. Looking out, the right side has a more public beach with pebbles, concessions, plastic beds for rent, and lots of families with frolicking kids. We'd go there if we still had kids at home.
To the left are concrete platforms out in the full sun. In the middle is the Hotel Bellevue (next to the Karolina) with a private beach for hotel guests. Since it is not August the hotel is not full, thus we were able to buy our way into this beach.
The entire bay has a paved promenade around it, backed by pine trees, and it is pretty peaceful overall. Again the water is that classic Adriatic deep blue, crystal clear. In fact this area has won awards for the good water quality and they guarantee clean water and beaches.
Guarantee it.
We chose to buy into the Bellevue even though it was (for us) pretty pricey at 250 kuna ($38)
The beds are soft woven rattan instead of plastic and lay totally flat. An umbrella with hooks of course, and bonus! A table for our stuff. There is a waiter who insists on opening the locked gate for us, is Johnny-on-the-spot with drinks and food, and who brings us unlimited towels. (A towel each is a 100 kuna or more value). It is quiet, private, we have room to move in or out of the sun. Our small section, divided off the other side, only has 22 places. There are cold showers right here and clean bathrooms. Full bar and restaurant service is brought to us.
So yes, today we are officially beach snobs. And it feels like it. Really out of character for us... that said we relaxed and enjoyed the experience.
Buying entry gave me all the rights and privileges of the legitimate members.
"Would you like to charge this drink to your room, sir?” says the waiter.
Hell yes.
But...
What room?
48 is good but what if there is no 48?
A good safe number is 202.
But what if that pasty guy over there is 202?
I could say the number in German... no wait. Everybody here speaks German.
Shit shit shit shit
“Cash, thank you." I say politely.
Our first beers came with full tray of nuts and olives. Gail already has lunch picked off the menu and is planning her next drink. I have been in swimming and had a nice cold shower.
It is pretty quiet, more bird chirping sounds and less locusts, more subtle waves lapping.
Our original plan, based on yesterday's afternoon heat, was to hit the beach by nine and retreat to our room for a nap by one. But by buying into this beach, though it is expensive, we have bought ourselves a full, comfortable day on the water. We move with the shade. Everyone does, like a slow motion dance.
Hot? Dive in, or take a cold shower.
We both miss the simplicity and freedom of the FKK beach, however. That was pretty nice, quick to get used to.
It is important to remember: you could not do this option in the height of tourist season.
Even with the cooling bay breeze, by noon it is sweltering and I have to keep jumping in the water, or using the cold shower, seeking the shade of the umbrella.
There are people windsurfing and paddle boarding across the bay, and sailboats cross outside, slowly crossing from the one rocky opening to the other, disappearing behind the trees. Seagulls circle overhead, the sounds of the kids screaming echo faintly from the next bay over.
Big white glass orbs with purple stripes dripping down float in the water; glass jellyfish. I imagine they would look nice lit up at night.
Beer and peña colada. Swim. Podcast. Swim. Nap. Repeat.
About 14:00 these young, cute, well dressed girls come around with a silver tray holding little white logs, and tongs.
“Would you like a fresh towel?”
Well, sure. I have no idea what that is, but I’ll take it.
Well, Wow!
It is a damp, cold towel smelling of lemon. It must have been in the freezer because it stays cold a long time. It feels great on my face, my neck, my shoulders…
A “Fresh Towel."
Well, just when you think you have seen it all...
As the day wore on people left, some returned. The area was briefly full but from 12:00 till 15:00 it was almost empty.
There is a huge car camp back in another bay, filled with the most amazing camper setups. None of those gleaming white rows of fifth wheels, here the campsites are right next to each other, and the little to medium size tow-behind trailers have been outfitted with false roofs (air cooling and protection), screened in porches with recliners, or tables and chairs, effectively doubling the size of the living space, and all sorts of innovations. It is crowded, but fascinating to walk through. There is also a section of “cabins” that are trailers that have been permanently mounted on foundations, many with rock walls built neatly around them.
We went to dinner back at Za Kantuni, so I could have the Lamb Peka, which is Island Lamb under the bell. You know, they put the lamb and potatoes and veggies inside some sort of pot, and cook it slowly in the fire for hours.
Well, it was OK but I wasn’t really that impressed.
The flavors didn’t meld like I anticipated, and surprisingly for such slow cooking, the lamb wasn’t that soft or juicy. I hate to say this, but those Tagines in Morocco (that I got so tired of after a couple weeks) that use basically the same technique are a lot better.
Gail had a crab papardelle that was pretty good, and I had a bowl of crab bisque that was not spicy enough for me. All in all, not a great meal.
I headed out of town and along the east coast “ beaches” (ie. rocks) facing back towards Rab.
At 4:30 it is 78 degrees, 78% humidity. I am out walking before sunrise, because it will go up to 84 degrees today… with that humidity and the sun, those extra six degrees will be a killer.
Amazingly enough you can see mainland Croatia from here; a jagged wall across the horizon.
I think I see the hump of Rab, I know for sure I see Cres, and there are little flat islands here and there. The north shore has a concrete sidewalk going along it, and there are stairs down to flat places, the usual ladders fixed down into the water. But there is no shade here, no cuteness, nothing to really make it pretty. It would be a good place to come to just jump in and out at sunrise, but to spend a day over here?
So we headed along the side of the bay, and it is rock platform after rock platform, all with sunbeds and umbrellas, going along and along.
We found a semi-uncrowded platform and set up there, close to a good entrance to the sea, and spend a few hours doing the beach thing.
Sometime after noon, we go up to the Borik Beach Bar. Gail gets a Piña Colada, and I get a glass of rosé. The rosé goes well with the white umbrellas and blue water.
We head back into Mali Lošinj to beat the heat of the day, take cool showers and head out to a café to blow a few hours. I am thinking, calculating: today’s beach cost nothing, so tomorrow perhaps we can choose the luxury beach again, since that cost is defrayed over two days.
Typical tourist trap. The kind of a place where the waiter comes around several times asking, “Is everything OK?” because they know it isn’t. Kind of like Outback (In Istria we were NEVER ONCE asked if the food was OK. That is the confidence of people who know what they are doing.).
Well…
Tasteless dull food, sour wine, overpriced. Avoid it. I couldn't choke mine down. The sparkling mineral water was good however.
All the Parmesan cheese plus salt and pepper couldn't save my shrimp pasta. Gail's spaghetti was just OK.
I walked away from 2/3 of the plate, headed down the alley to Za Kantuni and had a great tuna salad.
To Sidro's credit, we got 25% off the bill without even asking.
I got a lead. €350 euro (about $400).
As much as I believe in supporting the local people, I believe more in supporting me and my family.
So we are taking the 5:00 ferry over. One hour, forty minute ride.
Cost? $4.92 (32 kuna).
Total. For two people.
In celebration we decided to blow the big kuna wad and go back to the "pamper me more" beach at Bellevue.
Mostly I just wanted another one of those "refreshing towels."
We just got up and headed over, and were on the beach by 8:15. Gail got a cappuccino and biscuit for breakfast, I had a beer and delicious chicken wrap for a mid-morning snack.
It was just more of the same, but since it is Monday the beach was empty. Only two other couples.
Sure enough, around 14:15 the girls came by.
"Refreshing towel, sir?"
Gail says, "I can do this at home."
I sez, "Yea, I want mine served on a silver platter with tongs."
That was that on that.
We headed back into town about 17:00, hung out in the room, then headed out to a last dinner. I am really craving salad, so that is the huge thing on my list. Gail, having a cappuccino, biscuit and then a warm cheese sandwich with Piña Colada, is not hungry at all.
Overall, Lošinj is OK, but personally I liked Vis and Rab better, as well as Hvar. They say this is "...the up and coming island..." There was nothing wrong with it here, I just am not finding some unique thing that holds me here, ties my heart to the island, makes me long to return.
There are laundry facilities. Again, think of the set up as a Y with the harbor in the top. Along the bottom stick, about ten minutes walk up the street leading out of the harbor (but still in the “old” area” there is a self-service laundry across from Nino’s Konoba. On the right side of the street walking away from the harbor.
On the left side of the harbor, there is the yacht marina office with the usual showers and laundry.