This is our last day of walking. We are both sad to cut the walk short but Gail’s blisters are really getting to her.
It’s a shame, really, as she is such a strong walker.
So we are going to walk to Capestang and catch a bus to Béziers, which was our stop for the night.
We set out again in the cool morning, the canal going across the bare, grassy countryside.
The mornings are the best; the cool, clear air and morning breeze bring smells across the land, the sharp light slanting just so, making everything look soft. Boats have not set out yet (the locks aren't open until 8) so the water is glassy.
We crossed the Pont (Bridge) Pigasell where there is a winery, and then the trail dropped back into trees for awhile. We saw egrets and ducks, thinking how few birds there are in the hot exposed sections.
Much to our frustration, but in reality saving us time, all the wineries we pass are closed. They don’t open until late in the afternoon, the hottest time of day when we want to be done walking.
I jump, then look myself over, patting my chest.
Nope, I was not shot.
I look around.
I didn’t step on a left over landmine from WWII. At least I seem to be alive.
Huh.
When all the obvious explanations don’t pan out, I finally figure out the gas in the water blew off the snap-on lid of the regular water bottle.
Huh.
Who would have guessed?
Exploding gas water.
It is the same hot hot sun, the grass dry, but a few more trees and gravel trail. So many dead trees from that fungus infection, and thousands of new planted trees, all tagged. Perhaps this section will be shaded in twenty-five years?
A boat slowly passes us going our way, and we recognize the people on it. We saw them maybe two days ago when we were sitting at a lock drinking wine (they were going thru the lock) then again tied up along the canal.
Our friends.
We again!
They very slowly pull ahead, then pass us, and after a mile disappear around a bend ahead of us.
A boat comes at us, flying a California flag off the stern.
That slow boat that I race-walked against two days ago? They finally caught us today at the edge of Capestang.
The information centers here all tout the local produce, and in this case it is heavy on wine. In fact one wall of the TI looks like, and is, a wine shop. Best of all: free samples.
David, Nels, I think this is an idea whose time has come for Shasta County!
It’s an hour until the next bus, so we walked over to the town square by the cathedral and sat under the shade with two beers, and two pizzas we picked up from the bakery.
So we are drinking and eating and the people over next to us ask if we are the walkers on the canal?
Much to our surprise it is our friends, The Boat People! They are from South Africa doing the canal by rental boat but think our walking looks like a lovely time.
We laughed but admit that it is pretty nice. We all think it’s funny that we are making pretty much the same speed.
We moved over to the wine bar for two glasses and enjoyed the noon bells at the cathedral before it was time to catch the bus.
The bus dropped us across the bridge from Béziers, and walking in we were treated to a great view of the old bridge pointing up the hill to the cathedral.
We dropped our bags at Maison De L'Orb, a very cute and surprising three room place hidden in a plain building behind an obscure door. The kind of a place that is a surprise when you walk in, like finding the crystals in a geode. Our room is small but well situated and we have a view of the River Orb. The owner, Mark Binmore, is a published author with at least fifteen books in print.
We had a nice visit then set out to explore Béziers.
I climbed the 165 steps up the bell tower for the views. I could see the high Canal du Midi bridge crossing the River Orb, narrow twisty streets below.
These old Roman towns are often laid out like this, a tangle of narrow roads with the one main road back to Rome arrow straight through it all.
The town is decorated with colorful hanging sculptures, and many of the buildings have whimsical paintings, like famous people standing on balconies or a sign hanger about to fall off a ladder.
The wide, tree lined shopping street, Allées Paul Riquet, is named after the canal builder who was born here.
We got a cold beer at a bar, frites (fries) delivered hot and crisp from the kebab up the street. This was an excellent snack.
We had a very entertaining time watching a traffic speed camera set up on one street. The camera either thanked you for following the speed limit, or issued you a ticket and fine on the spot, followed by a frowny-face. About every other car was frowned upon.
Then we had a very unfortunate, lousy dinner at a “wine bar” Le Trois Six (rated 4.3).
rue they had a good selection of wines listed, about half of which were not available, including Gail’s first and second choices.
She ended up with choice three which was OK, and I got my second choice which was actually a good Cabernet-Syrah blend.
We already were some bites into our salads when Gail watched the
waitress drop a fork on the ground then pick it up and take it out with a meal.
Oh.
Now that’s not good.
We stopped eating, but I decided to have one more glass of the same
wine. I could not catch the waitress, but the owner asked me if I liked the dry tannic wine?
Oh yes I said. I would like another glass of the same.
Oh I have a new wine I just got in, I know you will love it. I’ll let you try a glass for the same price...
OK I think. Sure, why not.
Half an hour later he brings out the glass.
He looks at me expectantly as I take a sip.
I almost spit it out.
It is red, yes, but not tannic or dry, in fact it tastes like the
normal California supermarket, sweet red wine (“fruit forward,” they
say, like Ménage à Trois or Barefoot).
I hand it back and say haughtily, this is too sweet and not at all tannic.
I want the Cabernet - Syrah please!
He was shocked.
I got the wine a while later but the owner never came back around.
I don’t know if it was a bait and switch to dump cheaper wine on a stupid tourist, or if he truly thought it was dry. If he truly thought that, he is in the wrong business.
And so our last day on the Canal du Midi came to a disappointing end.
14 miles today
92 total