It rained all night. We woke to rain. I figured between the rain and then the mud on the trail, there is no way we were going to walk today. And Gail’s feet could use some help.
So Gail slept in until seven while I started plotting some changes.
I arranged for my pack to be picked up and shuttled forward, for €18 a stop, for the next three stops. I figured getting rid of my pack would allow me to carry Gail’s pack (minus what she can stuff into mine to ship). Reduced weight for me, and no weight for her should pay off.
We want to keep walking, but Gail is not willing to amputate her feet at the end of the trip.
We ate a slow breakfast and walked to the train in rain. It is only €6 for two to take the 20 minute ride to Carcassonne, a trip that would have taken us 10-12 hours to walk. Halfway there the rain stopped and the sun peeked out, but it stayed cold and windy all day with on and off showers.
The train station in Carcassonne is in the new part of the city, right on the canal. So we got out and looked around at the Carcassonne harbor.
As we came up through the city, we stopped at a bar for an espresso and cappuccino, then walked across the bridge into the old walled city, “Le Cite."
We were in Carcassonne our very first trip to Europe, in 2009. It was a cool place then, and it is still nice now. There are a lot of tourists, I mean it is packed so you have trouble getting around. That said, you can still wander off up an alley or go out and circle Le Cite just below the walls.
And it is still quiet at night so it is worth the stay.
Here are photos of our first visit.
We stayed at Le Grand Puits before with the charming Nicole. She has three rooms in a house built in the 1400s. We had the yellow room, so that is what I paid for and reserved, but the people there wanted to stay an extra day so she just gave us the orange suite. It was pretty sweet. Both rooms are charming, but the orange is larger, has extra beds and a balcony to sit on.
She also gave us a local bottle of wine which was quite good, and so we tried to sit outside and drink it, but Gail got cold after a while.
The walls are very cool to walk and look at. the entire town was walled in, including the castle and a cathedral. Walking the streets… well the streets are filled with shops selling wooden swords and magnets and cups and crap.
There is even a shop selling tours: Oh look! You can pay to go on a tour of the Canal du Midi.
Why...???
We went in the cathedral, which is really pretty nice and almost cozy for a cathedral. It is not overwhelmingly huge.
The stained glass windows are nice and there is an interesting tapestry that shows Mary holding Jesus and feeding him.
However, in this particular one Mary’s nipple is exposed.
I don’t recall ever seeing that before.
Mary’s nipple I mean.
Here’s the thing: little baby Jesus looked just as surprised as I did.
This is “The Place" where I lost my cassoulet virginity ten years ago!
We walked back and met the owner, who was pleased we had returned. We reserved the best table, right by the open fire.
Will it be as good as I remember?
When we returned later that evening, it was colder and windy. Sitting by the fire felt so great.
Gail ordered the cheese crêpe, a fromage and walnut salad, and a pitcher of white wine.
I ordered the assiette (plate) of foie gras (on toast) and cassoulet trencavel. “Trencavel” means the cassoulet has pork sausage, duck breast, and a crispy duck leg. I also ordered a pitcher of red wine
We drank and waited and enjoyed the ambience; the candle on the table, the old leaded windows and beamed ceiling, the music from the guitar player singing American hits in Spanish (we are in Catalonia, on the border with Spain).
The fire is used to cook as well, mostly potatoes and steaks, filling room with delicious smells.
Well.
My foie gras was cold and fresh and so buttery, coated my tongue. It paired perfectly with Gail’s white wine much to her annoyance) which makes my tongue tingle.
Gail’s salad was all she had hoped it would be... and more.
That is a quote from her.
Not smothered in dressing like so many are. Fresh and clean, the tastes come out and are simply accented.
The cassoulet was fantastic. The beans on top were burned and crisp. The duck leg had firm, crispy skin. Last night’s cassoulet had the pepper-pop to it, but tonight’s has the deep, dark rich flavor I love.
Sometime around the time when the guitar player was singing and I was a half hour into my simple foie gras, I realized I am FINALLY slowing down and relaxing.
And the meal passed over three hours like a long, lazy dream.
Gail ordered Irish coffee, and I had espresso and cream brûlée.
I may be in a rut but it is a very happy rut.
A rut I dug myself, and I like it here.
We returned to our room. Gail clashed and I consumed copious amounts of instant Nescafé Gold in a vain attempt to update my blog, but all it did was make me burp.
Tomorrow we walk about 16 miles.
TODAY: Rest (rain) day - 6 miles walking
46 miles in three days.