Six days now, and I am at the point where I can hardly get motivated to shave.
Hell, most days we don't even bother to get dressed.
So, what have we been doing for a week?
Mostly nothing.
Oh, we had good intentions of going out to explore, possibly driving up the coast to see a couple of the more famous American-Tourist type beach cities. Or maybe going zip-lining, or out on a snorkle boat.
But then reality kicked in.
Hot, humid, lazy-days in the sun reality.
We managed to go next door to Las Palmitas every afternoon to have ceviche and cervzas for lunch.
Jimmy Buffett sings "... give me oysters and beer every day of the year and I'll feel fine...". Well, give me this fresh chunky marlin ceviche every day. Served slightly different each time, but consistently good, consistently fresh.
We walked up and down the three-mile long beach, north end to south end, collecting shells and wading across streams.
Did that several times and pretended it was "exercise."
Gail swam, and I body surfed.
We swung gently in the hammocks and read.
We laid around on the comfortable beach beds and napped.
The temperatures ranged from 85-89 degrees, with 70% humidity or more (at home right now it is 45 degrees and raining). The days are long here near the equator, with eleven and a half hours of sunlight (winter days at home are down to 9:15 of sun).
Long, long hot days.
So it seemed a shame to waste all that sun and warmth going around doing stuff.
We kind of settled into a rhythm. Up early, I made coffee and took a cup out to the night watchman. We'd stand and drink, watching the sun rise. Gail would get up later, and we'd make more coffee and eat in our room.
Showers, and out to the beach.
Ceviche and beers next door at Las Palmitas.
Back to the beach.
Shower and put on clothes around 17:00.
Sometime around sunset be sure we were on the beach, perhaps heading into town.
Take a few sunset photos to make everyone jealous.
Drinks.
Dinner somewhere.
Drinks again.
Walk around, then head home.
Not that we didn't try any new things. One day I stepped way out and had some grilled garlic mixed seafood along with the ceviche at lunch.
Ooooh. Daring.
Another day I used a boggie board instead of body surfing.
I continued my search for a good margarita, and was mostly disappointed. It is surprisingly hard to get a good margarita in Costa Rica, and harder still to get guacamole. Seems like there is a shortage of avocados or something.
We tried out every bar and soda up and down the beach, and though we enjoyed the seating and views, the pretty high prices for very weak drinks left something of a "non-margarita" taste in my mouth, so to speak.
For the record, the best margarita was at Coco's Mexican Restaurant, second best was at a little soda just up the beach called Bahia Bar.
We walked up and the sign said "Cockatiels" so I ordered a margarita from the young kid at the counter. "Si," he said, then called for help. They conferenced in the kitchen. Mom ran out and grabbed a handful of limes, while the kid dug through their bar and found (maybe) tequila. Or not. We saw a (another?) bottle sitting over to the right. Anyway, there was some chopping, some squeezing, another whispered conference. More limes to the back with a something-else-in-the-other-hand. Finally a drink was presented to me, no salted rim, but thick with pulp and heavy on the liquor. No ice. Tasty and unique, but technically maybe not a margarita.
But... it was only ¢1500 (about $2.50) compared to the ¢3-4000 we have been paying.
We tended to stick to beer, as good wine is also pretty non-existent in this small town.
In contrast, the basic street food of pork or chicken sticks is pretty good, and cheap. We tried them all, settled on one, and he remembered us from day to day.
We exchanged info with the great Canadian Family next door. They are here for a month, and gave us some good intel about heading over to Carrillo Beach. They had their kids with them, and it brought back memories of when we took our kids to Hawaii in the summers as they were growing up.
So we took their recommendation, just walking along the beach and then over the point. We saw crocodiles on that trip, and ate at the little Hula Jungla Soda. We intended to go to the private wildlife "zoo and preserve" but passed on it. The cost was $20 each and mid-day, so not much chance of seeing anything.
We had a coconut split for us, drank the water. Then I needed a beer to "cleanse my palate" so to speak.
Carrillo Beach is spectacular, however, all backed with neat palm trees and a wide, clean, fine sand beach. The downside is there are no guesthouses or bars right on the beach, so you have to walk to it from wherever you are staying, and bring your own stuff (as opposed to Samara, where we are right on the beach with beds and hammocks, and drinks and food are a hop away).
That was about a seven mile round-trip walk.
The fact is, our entire place, all six rooms, is mostly just a hang out type place. Very comfortable and low key. Kind of what you would picture for Costa Rica if you had never been here, all wood and colorful and laid back, surrounded by palm trees.
Ten steps out to the beach, or three to the pool if you are so inclined. After the exhausting trek you can collapse into a hammock or a padded beach bed under the palms.
We walked north one afternoon to Cangregal, wading across the estuary to the far tip of Samara Beach. There is a beautiful park of palms there, and a small, two street village with monkeys in the trees (over a dozen) and a little cafe called La Perla. The food was good, authentic Tico, and there is a surf school based there as well. You can also rent a cheap room from them. Gail had a great juicy chicken quesadilla, and I had garlic grilled shrimps and fries.
Fan-fucking-tastic. Different too. It was the sauce I think.
We saw the monkeys in the trees as we left. First there was one, then three, then a dozen. I was so busy looking up I stepped right into a mushy pile of unidentified animal shit. So gross. But no worries, I just washed off in the estuary on the way back across.
But just so gross.
We had a good meal one night at Luv Burger, a vegetarian place making innovative burgers. We returned there for a second meal. I liked the Coco-Bacon Burger, which used toated coconut "bacon" on top of the burger.
Coco's Mexican had decent food, and the best margaritas we found. Only 3,000¢ (about $5.00) during happy hour. The "Black and Blue" Tacos were all right.
Oh La La French restaurant sure wasn't French at all, and it was pretty weird to have shredded meat ravioli (think tamales) with cheese sauce and pico de gallo. I'd give it a pass.
I think the best part of town was down a side street by the Samara Organics Market. There is a covered courtyard called the Natural Center, with the Sandwich Shop, Casa Maxie ice cream and snacks stand, and El Tigre Verde falafel and sandwich place.
I had the best grilled BBQ pork wrap at the Sub Express Sandwich Shop, and asked for it spicy. It was sweet, and covered with a 15 pepper picante sauce, special made by the owner. If you go, be sure to request it.
The Natural center and side street also hides the Mojito Italian Cafe, the Bohemian Cafe, and a cute little Italian Bistrot, That's Amore, that just opened.
We saw a lot of animals here, and I had time to watch how sea-shell animals leave little trails before burying themselves in the sand.
Speaking of the beach life, it is a strange thing that there are very few beach birds. Like two seagulls wheeling, a few pelicans, and none of the hopping and poking type birds we see on the beaches of California.
Every sunset was different, every evening balmy and beautiful. It became a tradition to be on the beach at sunset.
We saw the "green flash" twice; I photographed it once (see photos below).
So, our plans for Christmas Day:
Wake up.
Go beach.
At sunset, dinner at Las Palmitas next door, looking over the beach. I went over yesterday and special requested ceviche with avocado, fresh lobster (me) and fresh fish (Gail) dinners. We even have a bottle of (hopefully) good organic Italian Pinot Grigio from the Organics Market chilling in the freezer.
Overall Samara has been a great place to hang out and relax.