After we basically had our trip set up, we decided to add on a side trip to Siem Reap, Cambodia to see the temples of Angkor Wat.
Well, I had some second thoughts about that after I got "temple fatigue" in Thailand, and double second thoughts when I discovered Hanoi.
But... it was really worth going and turned out to be a fantastic finish to our trip. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is unlike anything else. Maybe the best way to describe it is a mix of Mexican Mayan Ruins with Egyptian Pyramids.
If you are anywhere near Cambodia I would recommend making the time and effort to go; double that if you are doing a "one-and-done" tour of SE Asia.
We stayed in a nice AirBnB, but not so great that I am going to recommend it to you. We could walk into Siem Reap town easy enough and so Gail and I did several times.
Our basic plan was to tour the temple complexes in the mornings and then hang out in the afternoon. This was a good strategy as the days were very hot. We would start about 9:00 with breakfast in town, then be at the first temple about 10 or 10:30. By 1:00 everyone was ready to head back.
A "Wat" is a Temple.
Angkor is the most famous. Angkor means "Capital City."
Angkor Wat is the famous one everyone refers to, but there are others.
The temples vary. Some were Buddhist first, then "converted" (ie: defaced and vandalized) into Hindu temples. Some were always Hindu.
There is one temple called Ta Prohm where they filmed Laura Croft, Tomb Raider, and one of the Indiana Jones movies. It has the famous scene of the huge tree roots literally devouring the temple.
We toured a couple others as well. You can see more on my InstaGram, here.
Plus, as a bonus, the four bridges (N-S-E-W) over the moat (this was a secure city) are all lined with very cool, larger than life-sized figures of gods and demons. There are 54 gods on one side, 54 demons on the other (108 figures on each bridge).
I'm an early riser anyway, so after that we grabbed a coffee and then explored three more temples before noon. This was my single best day of touring; the light was perfect, it was cool and there were no crowds.
My favorite temple that day was called Preah Khan. We wandered around, saw some of the original paint on the inside underneath back-side of stone columns, and saw some very well preserved carvings. Any direction you come in (N-S-E-W) you have to walk through 20, ever smaller doorways. By the time you reach the center (holy place) you have been forced to bow (in worship) twenty times.
This temple is kind of "out of the way" to begin with, but early in the morning? I bet we didn't see ten other people.
You do not have to have a guide to visit the temple complexes. And I am not a "guided tour" kind of person.
That said: it was a great decision.
Michael came up with the idea of a driver AND a guide, so we could be dropped off, hike through, and get picked up with no back-tracking. These two were worth it and more.
Polrith not only smoothed the way, but he pointed out many things I would have missed. He is an excellent photographer and so we got along really well as we searched for photos together. I enjoyed his jokes and sense of humor, and we ended up eating dinner with his family (more later).
Most importantly: I met and talked to someone who lived through the Cambodian Civil War. I heard horrific stories straight from the mouth of this cheerful man and it made me realize, once again, that I have nothing, not one damn thing, to complain about.
Polrith, I know you will read this, and I want you to know I appreciated out time together.
We also hired probably the greatest driver in Cambodia, Sophal. Not only did he take us everywhere in comfort, he provided water and stops when needed AND he has his own Tuk-Tuk service! He was on call for us the entire time we were in Siem Reap, which came in handy a couple times.
Their contact information is below. I cannot tell you how much time and hassle they saved us, and how much I learned from them
There is actually a city full of people who live and work, not just a bunch of temples. There are bars and restaurants, and we happened to be in town for the 2023 Water Festival.
We wandered along the canal, ran into Polrith's family's food cart (and ate delicious food there) watched the fireworks, lights, a concert featuring *maybe?* Sang Sok Serey (at any rate it was good music), saw the boat races and just had a great time.
Again, for more, see my InstaGram, here.